How to Measure Knit Gauge

When you follow a knitting pattern, your stitches with a particular size needle may be bigger or smaller than the stitches of the pattern's creator, especially if you are using a different type of yard than originally used for the pattern. Find out how to measure knit gauge (the stitches per inch), so you can adjust your knitting needle size before starting a project that ends up the wrong size.

1. Find the gauge listed on the pattern. It is usually at the beginning of the pattern, along with the type of yarn and size of knitting needle to use.
2. Consider your project, assessing whether the measurements need to be precise, or if the item size can vary and still be usable. For example, a teddy bear will turn out fine even if a bit bigger or smaller than the pattern instructions, while gloves need to be sized exactly so they fit the wearer.
3. Determine what size sample swatch you will use. For a project with leeway, a 4-inch (10-cm) swatch can suffice, but otherwise, you want a sample of 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm).
4. Knit your sample swatch. Use stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl next row) for measuring knit gauge, unless the pattern's listed gauge specifically says to work the sample in another pattern, such as a seed stitch.
   • When making a 4-inch (10-cm) swatch, use stockinette or the listed stitch for making the entire sample. (If no stitch is listed, the listed gauge refers to stockinette stitch.) The end result will be an approximation, because stitch tension functions differently on edges than in the midst of a fabric.
   • When making a swatch of 6 to 8 inches(15-20 cm), work in the garter stitch for the first several rows until you have about 1 inch (2.5 cm) as border. After that, begin and end each row with an inch (2.5 cm) of garter stitch. In the middle, use stockinette stitch or the pattern being used by the gauge, until you're about 1 inch (2.5 cm) short of making a square. Finish that last inch (2.5 cm) in garter stitch. The garter stitch border will mimic how putting the stitches within the full project will affect the tension, while giving you easy points to start and end your measuring and counting.
5. Lay your sample flat and skip the edges of the sample swatch. Set a hard ruler across your swatch to count your stitches per 4 inches (10 cm).
   • To get the most accurate gauge measurement, wash and dry your sample before you measure your knit gauge.
   • The horizontal measurement is your stitches per inch. The vertical measurement is your rows per inch.
6. Compare your sample gauge to the pattern's gauge measurement.
7. If you have about 1 stitch more per inch (2.5 cm) than the pattern, try again with a larger needle. If it's more than 1 stitch difference, then you probably need a thicker yarn.
8. If you have about 1 stitch fewer per inch (2.5 cm) than the pattern, try again with a smaller needle. If it's more than 1 stitch fewer, then you probably need a thinner yarn.
9. Begin your project with the yarn and needles that matched the pattern gauge.

• If you're substituting a different yarn for the one the pattern calls for, make sure they're the same type of yarn in thickness and appearance. Otherwise, you'll likely have to experiment a bit to hit your gauge. A yarn that's thicker than the one called for in the pattern will need a smaller needle size. A yarn that's thinner will need either a larger needle size or 2+ strands held together and used as if 1 strand.
• Always use the exact same yarn and knitting needles for making the sample swatch as you will use for the project. Changing either can affect the project, even if you're changing the needles for different ones of the same size. Different brands' sizing can differ, and your knitting tension (which produces the gauge) can differ depending on the type of knitting needles you use. Even using wooden needles instead of plastic can change your tension.
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  You may want to knit a circular gauge swatch, if your project is going to be knit in the round. To do this, you don't turn the work while knitting your swatch. Simply allow the yarn to travel along the back of the knitting. This will affect your tension as if you are circular knitting.