How to Make a Tatted and Lace Stitch Collar Insertion (1870)

This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when worked with fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It consists of 2 rows of 3 branched figures turned opposite one another, which are worked separately and then joined into a row. This pattern comes from Mrs Beeton's 1870 work Beeton's Book of Needlework, hence the date in the title to assist in discerning different tatting patterns.

1. Work 9 times as follows. 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. * Draw into a circle and * work at a short distance a second circle as follows - 2 double fastened on to the last purl of the 1st circle, 8 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more from *, knot together the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the wrong side. One figure is thus completed; each following figure is fastened on to the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see illustration).
2. Commence the second row. When a sufficient number of such figures have been worked, work a second row of them in the same manner, and fasten (following the illustration) each middle circle of one figure on to the corresponding circle of the first row. The circles filled with lace stitch are worked when the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty places between 4 patterns.
3. Work first 3 double. Fasten them on to a purl on the side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl of the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double.
4. Join the stitches into a circle. Don't make this join too close, so that the purls keep their natural position.
5. Cut off the cotton. Fasten the two ends on the wrong side.
6. Work the lace stitch. The lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with fine crochet cotton.

• The pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel.

• Tatting cotton
• Tatting shuttle
• Fine crochet cotton and needle for lace stitch
• Coloured ribbon to draw through the insertion; select type and colour as desired.