How to Sew an Integrated Inseam Pocket

Sewing an integrated inseam pocket not only saves sewing time, but assures a smooth pocket that will lay flat almost all the time. This type of pocket can be used in both pants and skirts.

1. Cut out the sewing pattern pieces.
2. Cut out an extra pocket using the pocket pattern piece. Cut notches or placement marks in the extra pattern piece.
   
   
3. Pin the pocket pattern pieces to the skirt or pattern pieces. Use the notches to evenly align the pocket pattern templates to the skirt or pant pattern. Pin the pocket along the pattern cutting line. You can use the next size down on a multi-size pattern. You could also use a seam line, if this was available on your pattern piece.
   
   
4. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric following the pattern layout directions.
5. Cut the fabric using the integrated pattern pieces.
6. Sew the skirt or pants using the pattern directions.
   
   
7. Pivot at and follow along the curve of the pocket piece.
8. Press the pockets using lots of steam to ensure the pockets lay neatly.

• Mark pattern pieces with needed darts and other sewing details.
• Edge finish cut out fabric pieces, if desired.
• Sew darts or pleats, if using, press.
• Sew crotch seam.
• Sew pant inseams.
• Sew side seams for pant or skirt.
• Apply waistband or insert elastic into waistband.
• Hang pants overnight using a pant hanger.
• Turn up hem. Sew hem as desired.
  • Note these are general sewing directions for constructing a basic pant. Use your sewing pattern directions for the best results.

• You may need to purchase a bit of extra fabric as this method uses slightly more fabric to accommodate the extra pocket width.
  • Purchase 58 to 60-inch width fabric for ease of fitting the pant pattern pieces. 44 to 45-inch fabric should work too, but wider fabric makes layout much easier.
• Preshrink your fabric before cutting out the patterns.
• Using this pocket insertion makes sewing elastic waist pants a breeze.

• Use care when operating the sewing machine.
• If you're short on fabric, cutting the pockets separately may utilize your fabric more efficiently than this approach.

• Sewing pattern
• Scissors
• Sewing pins
• Plain white paper or other paper to make the extra pocket pattern piece.
• Tape
• Sewing machine to sew the pants or skirt