How to Hand Sew a Hem

Sewing machine not working? On vacation with access only to a thread and needle? Knowing how to fix a hem by hand sewing is a valuable skill and it's not hard once you know how. People have been sewing for thousands of years now, so knowing how to sew by hand is an excellent and amazing skill to know. This article explains the quick and easy method for hand sewing a hem.

1. 

    Iron the garment you wish to hem.
   Iron the garment you wish to hem. It's important to remove any creases and bumps so that the garment is sitting flat and the hemline you create will be accurate.
2. Measure the hemline. Use a long ruler to measure the level of the hem from the floor. Use pins or chalk to mark the length. Trim the fabric to a suitable length below this chalk or pin line. There must be enough space left to be able to turn up the hem but not too much fabric should be left in place because it can make the hem appear bulky.
   • 

      Alternatively, after measuring, iron up the hemline to whatever width you'd like the new hem to be.
     Alternatively, after measuring, iron up the hemline to whatever width you'd like the new hem to be. This can be handy if you don't have pins or chalk and even if you do, it can neaten the hemline beautifully, making it very easy to follow the new hem's stitching line.
   • In determining the hem length, it's recommended that you wear the shoes that you'll be wearing with the particular garment, as this will ensure the final length is most accurate.
3. 

    Thread a small needle with thread that matches the garment color as closely as possible.
   Thread a small needle with thread that matches the garment color as closely as possible.
4. 

    Starting at a seam line on the wrong side of the hem, make one teeny tiny stitch through the folded or rolled hem.
   Starting at a seam line on the wrong side of the hem, make one teeny tiny stitch through the folded or rolled hem. Bring the thread through the hem edge. Suitable stitching for a hem include the following (dependent on whether you want flat or blind hemming):
   • Slant hemming: This is the quickest method but it's the least durable because the thread is exposed and is easily frayed. Since this article is focused on helping you out in a pinch, this is the stitch shown in the images.
   • Vertical hemming: This is much more durable. It works best for hems finished on woven or stretch-lace seam bindings.
   • Slip hemming: Again, very durable, this stitch technique is almost invisible. This method uses uneven slip stitches which are slipped through the fold of the hem edge.
   • Herringbone stitch: Another durable technique for a hem. This one is best used for a pinked edge (an edge cut with pinking shears). The thread crosses over itself with each stitch.
   • Blind hemming stitch: This is fast and easy, for use on a blind hem.
   • Blind herringbone stitch: This is the same as herringbone stitch but it's stitched between the hem and the garment. It's ideal for heavy fabrics.
   • Hemstitching: This is an ornamental hem finish used mainly for linens, handkerchiefs and other decorative material items. It's fairly specialized and you'll only want to use it if you're working on something decorative and have plenty of time.
5. 

    Keep stitching around, working from right to left.
   Keep stitching around, working from right to left. Make teeny tiny stitches about an inch (2.5cm) apart. Catch only one thread of the garment fabric each time, then bring the needle up through the edge of the hem. You'll see the slanting form beginning to take shape across the length of the hem.
6. 

    Knot the thread at the end of stitching the hem.
   Knot the thread at the end of stitching the hem. Cut away the remaining thread. Try on the garment to test the balance of the hemline. Hopefully it's good to go; otherwise, you will need to adjust by unpicking and resewing any areas that appear uneven.
   • If you've used the quick and easy slant hemming to hand hem your item but you want the hem to be more durable, simply use one of the other hand hemming methods suggested above or machine stitch the hem into place at a later date. The beauty of the fast method is that it allows for temporary fixes or testing of hem lengths, which can be ideal for travel, for fashion shows or shoots, for designers, and so on.

• Always remember-this is quick, but does take patience. Don't rush.
• If you have the choice between hand or machine hemming, the machine hemming will provide you with more options and it is also a much stronger hem. However, if you're aiming for an invisible stitch or the look of a couture original, the hand sewn hem is always best. Machine stitched hems will always make the hem appear like a bought garment.
• It's recommended that you have a friend to help when working on a hem, as this person can help you judge the correct positioning of the hemline. If this isn't possible, use a tailor's dummy set to your height.
• After cutting the fabric, you'll need to neaten the raw edge. Some fabrics will require more work than others in this respect.

• A thimble is helpful if you find pushing the needle through the fabric is painful.
• Always store the needle immediately after use, to avoid losing it or pricking yourself with it.
• Store the needle with at least six inches of thread in it, with the doubled thread knotted at the end. This way, you'll find it more easily if you happen to drop it.

• Needle
• Thread
• Scissors
• Comfortable workspace that is well lit
• Iron and ironing board
• Pins and tailor's chalk (optional but helpful)
• Tailor's dummy (optional but helpful)